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When compiling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the family member, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.